Chicago City Council Bans Restaurants from Serving Duck or Goose Liver

On the day Chicago's ban goes into effect, foie gras enthusiasts are fighting back with protests and a lawsuit.

The Illinois Restaurant Association filed a lawsuit today in Cook County. It says the Chicago City Council overstepped its authority in April when it voted to ban restaurants from serving the delicacy made of duck or goose liver.

Meanwhile, several Chicago restaurants that have never before served foie gras will offer the dish today in a one-day protest of the foie-gras ban.

The ban, which the city's Department of Law says will take effect today, prohibits the sale of foie gras in Chicago restaurants and other food-dispensing establishments.

The council banned foie gras after hearing from animal rights activists about the way the birds are force fed to make their livers bigger.

Opponents of the ban say any force feeding that's done is done legally in places like California and New York or up in Canada or in France.

They contend that under the state's constitution, the city of Chicago has authority to legislate "only with respect to its own problems."

And so, for one day only, diners will be able to order foie gras and beef tournedos Vesuvio style at Harry Caray's, soul-food-style foie gras at BJ's Market and Bakery and deep-dish foie-gras pizza at Connie's Pizza (but only at the pizza chain's Archer Avenue location).

"In support of our restaurant brethren, we want to showcase foie-gras pizza to demonstrate what our government is trying to dictate," says Ivan Matsunaga, executive vice president of Connie's Pizza and chairman of the Illinois Restaurant Association.

"We've never served foie gras in 20 years," says Grant DePorter, president of Harry Caray's restaurant. "But this ordinance is making Chicago into a national joke, at least in food circles. That's why we're doing it."

By Phil Vettel-Tribune restaurant critic
Published August 22, 2006
The Associated Press contributed to this report.